1. In a small bowl, combine warm water and sugar, then sprinkle the yeast on top. Let it sit until frothy (5–10 minutes).

2. In a large bowl, mix flour and salt. Add the yeast mixture and knead until a smooth, stiff dough forms (about 10 minutes by hand or 6–8 minutes in a stand mixer).

3. Place dough in an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm spot for 60–90 minutes or until doubled. (Refrigerate overnight for more flavor, if desired.)

4. Punch down dough and divide into 8 equal parts. Shape into balls, then poke a hole in the center and stretch into a 1.5- to 2-inch ring.

5. Let shaped bagels rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and stir in barley malt syrup.

6. Reduce to a simmer and boil bagels in batches, 30–45 seconds per side. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

7. While bagels are damp, add toppings if desired, pressing gently to help them stick.

8. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 18–22 minutes, rotating halfway, until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack before serving.